September 21

…and slept like the proverbial logs. This morning we are completely recharged. The night was quiet and the room was cool, not stuffy. At breakfast, I met the first Parisians I have really liked. They were not condescending or rude (that is my job!). Although his English was only little better than Ann’s French we had, a nice “conversation” with our hostess, Cathrine, helping as needed. Her husband Andre speaks no English. The breakfast was coffee, croissant, baguette with seeds, jam, butter and orange juice. The croissant was so flaky that each time I touched it pieces of the layers went flying like a brown snowstorm. By the time I finished it, I was embarrassed by the brown pieces everywhere but on my plate.

Ah, today is the day to which I have been looking forward. Ann now believes me to be a certified geeky soon-to-be ex-husband. We are going to the Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud near Chinon, France. I know this is a pilgrimage we all hope to take one day. No? This is the burial place of Eleanor of Aquitaine and Henry II, King of England. Also, it is the burial place of their son, King Richard, the lion hearted, and his brother King John’s wife, Isabella of Angouleme. WOW. Now you want to go there, right? No? Henry II died in Chinon Castle up on the hill. Still no takers?

I admire Eleanor because this one chick controlled the entire Aquitaine in her own name, was married to both the King of France and then the King of England (At different times!). She was the mother of King Richard and King John. Some good work, huh? Well except for John and the fact Henry kept her in “protective custody” in a castle for decades because she was too uppity and inspired a revolt by her sons to overthrow him. That is one strong woman. She lived into her 80s dying in 1204 so she did not have to see her inept son John lose her beloved Aquitaine to France. We got in gratis because I so much admire Eleanor. I mean we got in free because it was the same holiday weekend we don’t understand.

The wines of the Loire were our next learning experience. This is Sunday so many wineries are closed. The crush is about to begin and this is the beginning of the harvest festivities being the first weekend in autumn. Fortunately, I picked up a pamphlet in Fontevraud for a winery open for tasting today! We programmed in the address and the sweet-voiced British computer lady got us there directly, well almost directly. She made several mistakes (OK, Ann, I made several mistakes)

Here we walked into a room with only the young lady of the winery present. SHE SPOKE ENGLISH - not only English but beautiful English. We were able to talk to her about the wines of the Loire region I had so much wished to try. She poured two Saumur cremants, “champagnes”, followed by the ones I wanted to try: Chinon, Saumur white and red and a Sancerre. She patiently explained how the same grapes varietals in different terroirs (type of soil and weather) change the characteristics of the grape in different areas. This we knew but enjoyed her ‘teaching” us. She is also much impressed with Oregon pinot noirs, which she described as possibly the best. She was fantastic. We bought a Saumur red to take home which was 100% cabernet franc.

On the way back to the B&B we stopped at Chateau Villandry because Ann wished to see their magnificent gardens. A larger crowd I have never seen even at Disneyland (an exaggeration). We couldn’t get near the place. There was a very long line to get in and it was after four in the afternoon. We found out this is Heritage Weekend where all national monuments are free to enter and private ones are discounted. That explained the crowds of French.

Back home to pop the cork, have a wine, cheese and baguette dinner, and prepare for the Bordeaux area tomorrow. Our hostess, Katrine, came over to ask if we needed anything. I asked if she had internet, “Oui”. Do you have wireless, “Oui, here is the password”. Hurray!!!