September 9

Today was a traveler’s hell. We knew this was to be a long day on the road but this was absurd. Freddie talked us out of taking the ferry off the south of the island and suggested we go back the way we came – across the bridge. We had the Islay ferry to catch at 6 pm. This two-and-a-half hour ferry was the last of the day. Leaving the house at 9am, we arrived at the ferry dock at 4:30pm, disembarked from the ferry at 8:45pm, and arrived at the Rosses’ house at 9pm, a 12-hour trip.

Actually all went quite well until we got on the 60 car Islay ferry (with only about 20 cars today). Although the weather was mild, this was the day that the former hurricane Gustav (I think) headed north from America across the Atlantic south of Iceland and is now sweeping upon the shores of Scotland. No problem occurred until we passed the Isle of Gigha and hit open water. Waves crashed over the ships bow as it rose and fell into the water. This was accompanied by a continual roll - left and right. Ann was the first to succumb, heading to the head to spend the next hour praying to the god of porcelain. Marian was next but she went outside into the teeth of the gale force winds to try to “hold it all together”. She withstood all the storm could give her but not without discomfort. Allan and I were fine drinking Talisker, a fine Isle of Skye single malt.

Finally, we reached Islay and were out of the wind. Off the ship, we drove to Alistair and Judy’s home, Benbhragghie, for a well-deserved Bruichladdich single malt then another. Ann and Marian did not imbibe but water satisfied them. We finished the day without a dinner but nobody seemed to mind. We crossed the patio and entered our house, Dunedin, for our stay on Islay. Dunedin is a three-bedroom two-bath house with a living room, full kitchen and a study adjacent to the Rosses’ main house.

Seeing Alistair and Judy was so comfortable. They are wonderful hosts, delightful conversationalists, and island folk living large but subtle if that makes any sense. Allan and Marian were immediately their new friends, family actually, since they are relatives of Ann and Allan’s father, Big Al.