September 18

Breakfast was a hoot here in Beauvoir near Mont St. Michel. In the breakfast room are tables for the six rooms. The others who stayed the night were from England and Scotland so we could all converse. Danielle held court and soon her husband, Kin, did so also. Humor and frivolity abounded. What a delightful way to start the day.

Today we were off into Mont St. Michel. We arrived early just after the morning high tide so the parking lot near the Mont was just beginning to open. On the salty, wet surface, we drove on as the water was receding at an alarming rate. So, no tour bus parking yet!!! Up we went to follow the circular pedestrian road up and up and up. Ann was a mountain goat ascending the uphill pedestrian road to the Abbey then the stairs then more stairs and then again more stairs. I was impressed. Once at the top, we then came down on the same road littered with tourist souvenir shops – one after another. It reminded me of the town of Assisi.

Now on to Brittany or Bretagne as these folks call it. Driving, we went to Cancale, St. Malo and Dinan all very cute villages on the coast but very tourist laden. We are snobs and do not appreciate these tourist folk!

Dinner was an adventure. From Danielle’s suggestion, we went to the Auberge de la Baie about two miles away. This restaurant is definitely not prepared for anyone who does not use the native tongue. After lamb last night, we wished the other delicacy of the area, seafood. I ordered andouille sausage and apples in pastry for a starter followed by a rouge something-or-another (turned out to be red mullet) then crème brûlée. Ann started with a fish soup then tronchons de saumonette and Normand tart for desert.

This is how it played out. Ann’s fish soup had the strongest fish smell (not aroma) I have ever endured and it was across the table form me. My andouille and apples had no flavor and no spicy sausage. On to the mains. Ann’s saumonette was not salmon but a fish that looked much like an eel cut into four inch pieces (actually segments of dogfish, a small shark). My fish was also unidentifiable but white and whole, sans head, thank goodness. Fortunately, my fish was mild unlike Ann’s dishes. The poor girl was 0-2 in the food score tonight. The dessert was the highlight of her meal.

To add to this, after we ordered we realized we had not checked if this out-of-the-way restaurant on the salt flats outside Beauvoir, France took Visa. As per usual, we did not carry enough cash to pay for the meal. After evaluating several scenarios in case of disaster, we ask and they said yes. This entire meal was too difficult for a couple of simple Americans. We left exhausted and still little hungry even after spending $60 for the meal.

After dinner we drove out to the causeway as we did last night but it was earlier and lighter so we could see the tide coming in at a speed unimaginable. It was windy and cold out over the bay but we saw a sight that was well worth the effort.